A resin liner cured inside the existing drain, sealing every joint along it. On low ground beside a shared wall, not opening a trench is the safer answer as well as the tidier one.
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Relining is usually sold on tidiness. No trench across the lawn, no fortnight of mess, the garden left as it was. All true, and in most suburbs that is the whole argument.
Here there is a stronger one underneath it. This is the floor of a valley that was swamp before it was suburb, drained in the 1890s and built over. The water table sits shallow. Dig down to sewer depth and the hole starts filling, so now you are pumping to keep a workable trench open.
On the lots through here that trench is rarely far from a boundary and frequently close to a shared wall. Dewatering made ground next to somebody else's footings is how you turn a drainage repair into a conversation with the neighbour and their insurer.
So relining is not the neat option here so much as the low-risk one. Nothing gets opened, nothing gets pumped, and nothing beside you gets undermined.


Nobody should quote you a reline off a description, and on this ground nobody should quote you a dig without knowing where the water starts.
The original drainage under most of this housing is earthenware laid in short lengths. That means a joint roughly every metre, and each one is a seam that can open.
Roots do not bore through sound pipe. They find a joint that is weeping and follow the moisture in. Ground movement does not usually crack a pipe in the middle either, it pulls a joint apart. Fix the joints and you have fixed almost everything that actually goes wrong down there.
The liner is drawn through, inflated against the wall and cured in place. What sets is one continuous pipe inside the old one, with nothing for a root to enter through and nothing to pull apart when the ground shifts.
That is why it is a permanent answer rather than a delay. Cutting roots clears today. Lining closes the door they came through.
Sewer depth on low, made ground frequently means digging into ground that is already wet. The trench takes water and has to be pumped continuously to stay workable.
That adds hours, it adds plant, and it produces saturated spoil that has to go somewhere. None of that appears in a headline excavation price, and all of it appears in the final invoice.
Lots through this suburb are narrow and a lot of the housing shares walls. A dewatered trench beside a party wall on made ground is a real risk to the footings on the other side, not a hypothetical one.
That is worth weighing before choosing the cheaper-looking option. Relining involves no trench, so the question does not arise.
A pipe that has fully collapsed, or one that has lost so much wall there is nothing to press against, cannot be lined. It has to be replaced, and we will say so rather than sell you a liner that has nothing to form against.
A joint thrown badly out of alignment can also rule it out. The camera settles which situation you are in, which is exactly why it goes down before anyone quotes.
Quoted at a fixed price before it starts, off the camera footage rather than off a guess. These are indicative 2026 ranges. Compare them against a dig quoted honestly here, with pumping, saturated spoil and reinstatement included.
Down the line with footage handed over. Comes off the reline if you go ahead.
One bad joint or a short damaged length, sealed without touching the rest.
House to boundary. Priced on length, diameter and how many bends are in it.
The line has to be back to clean wall before a liner will form properly against it.
The same line filmed again afterwards, so you can see what you paid for.

We film the line and hand the footage over before anyone quotes anything, because the pipe's condition decides whether lining is even possible.

Roots cut and the line jetted, so the liner forms against clean bore rather than against whatever was in the way.

Drawn through the existing access, inflated the length of the run, cured hard. No trench, no pumping, nothing opened up.

The finished line filmed end to end so you can see the joints are gone rather than take our word for it.
That pattern is usually joints, not bad luck. A camera will show you which ones, and whether sealing them ends it for good.
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A resin-soaked liner is drawn through the existing drain, inflated so it presses against the pipe wall along its whole length, and then cured until it sets hard. What you end up with is a continuous pipe formed inside the old one, with no joints along the lined section. Since joints are where roots enter and where ground movement opens gaps, removing them is the point of the exercise. The old pipe stays where it is and becomes the mould.
Because of what you dig into. Marrickville sits low, on ground that was swamp until it was drained in the 1890s and built over. The water table is shallow. Go down far enough to reach a sewer and a trench will often start taking water, which means pumping it out to work in it. That is slow, it is messy, and on a narrow lot it is happening within a metre or two of a shared wall. Dewatering next to a neighbour's footings on made ground is a genuine risk, not a theoretical one.
Usually yes, and it is the most common thing we line here. Earthenware was laid in short lengths, so there is a joint every metre or so, and after a hundred-odd years those joints are where everything goes wrong. Lining bridges all of them at once. What rules it out is not the material but the condition: if a section has fully collapsed, or lost so much wall that there is nothing left to press the liner against, that part needs replacing first.
A camera goes down first, always. The footage tells us whether the pipe is intact enough to act as a mould, where the joints are open, whether roots are through and how far, and whether anything has dropped out of alignment. We hand that footage over. Nobody should be quoting a reline off a description of the symptoms, and here nobody should be quoting a dig without knowing what depth the water starts at either.
It affects the alternative more than it affects the reline. Heritage conservation areas are widespread through this suburb, and they constrain what you can change externally. A tiled path, an original front fence, a mature street tree, a period frontage: all things that are straightforward to trench through and expensive or contentious to put back. Relining goes in through existing access points and leaves the surface as it was, which sidesteps that conversation entirely.
Most residential relines are done inside a day. The line is out of service while the liner cures, typically a few hours, and we will tell you the window before we start so you can plan around it. It is not a multi-day job with a trench open across the property, which on a lot where the only access is the front path is the difference between an inconvenience and a fortnight.
Sectional patches over a single bad joint run about $900 to $2,200. A full run from the house to the boundary is usually $3,500 to $7,000 depending on length, diameter and how many bends it has. A camera inspection is $250 to $450 and comes off the reline if you proceed. It reads as more than a dig until you price the dig properly here, with pumping, spoil removal and reinstating a heritage frontage in it.
Tell us whether anyone has filmed the line yet, and whether the property shares a wall. Both change what we recommend and what a dig would actually involve here.
Quoted off the footage, at a fixed price, with the finished line filmed again afterwards.
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