There is a grate somewhere outside most houses that almost nobody can identify. It is not stormwater, it is not a floor waste, and it is not decorative. It is the release valve on your sanitary drainage, and in this valley it is the single most useful thing on the property to know about.
When the sewer system takes more water than it was built to carry, the level in it rises. The overflow relief gully is designed to let that spill harmlessly outside, at a controlled point, before anything reaches a fixture indoors. Where it is missing, blocked, or set too high, the lowest fixture in the house becomes the relief point instead.
An overflow relief gully is a grated point outside, set low, that lets a surcharging sewer spill onto the ground rather than inside the house. Under AS/NZS 3500.2 its spill level has to sit at least 150 mm below the lowest fixture connected to the drain. Many older houses here have never had one, and on others later landscaping has raised the ground around it so the clearance no longer exists.
- Go and find it: a grated point, outside, low, near the house
- Check nothing is sitting on it or growing over it
- Check whether later paving or garden beds have raised the ground around it
- Work out what the lowest fixture inside the house is
- If there is no gully at all, that is worth knowing before the next storm
On this page
1. What it is actually for
Sanitary drainage is designed on the assumption that it will occasionally have to relieve itself. In heavy rain, water enters the sewer system in quantities it was never sized for, the level rises, and something has to give.
The overflow relief gully is where the system is designed to give. It is a low point, outside, with a grate that is meant to lift under pressure so the overflow goes onto the ground rather than backing further up the line.
That is not a failure. It is the system working exactly as intended, and a gully doing its job is the reason a house stays clean during a storm that puts water through somebody else's laundry.
A gully grate that moves under pressure is not broken and it is not badly fitted. That is the mechanism. A grate bolted down or paved over cannot do the one thing it is there for.
2. Why the level is the whole thing
A relief point only works if it is the lowest opening in the system. Water relieves at the lowest available point, and it does not care which one that is.
That is why the requirement is expressed as a level rather than as a location. Under AS/NZS 3500.2 the spill level of the gully has to sit at least 150 millimetres below the lowest fixture connected to the drain. That margin is what guarantees the outside point wins.
Take the margin away and the guarantee goes with it. If the gully is level with or above the lowest fixture inside, the house becomes the relief point, and it will be a ground floor shower, a laundry tub or a downstairs toilet, because those are the lowest openings in this housing stock.
3. The two ways it goes wrong on this housing
The first is that a great many older houses in this area never had one fitted at all. That is not negligence by anybody living there now, it is simply what was and was not done when the house was built.
The second is more common and easier to fix: the gully exists, but decades of landscaping have gone on around it. New paving laid over the top, a garden bed built up beside it, a path raised, a deck extended. Every one of those is a reasonable improvement, and collectively they can raise the ground until the clearance below the lowest fixture no longer exists.
So a house that was compliant when it was built can quietly stop being protected, without anybody doing anything wrong and without any sign until the first serious downpour.
4. Go and find yours, this weekend
- Walk the perimeter of the house and look for a grate at ground level, usually within a few metres of the building.
- It is not the stormwater pit. Stormwater grates are generally larger and often sit further out, taking surface water and downpipes.
- Check nothing is sitting on it: a pot, a bin, a stack of timber, a garden bed that has crept over.
- Check the level of the ground around it against the ground level at the house.
- Work out what the lowest fixture inside is. Usually a ground floor shower or a laundry tub.
- If you cannot find one at all, note that. It is genuinely useful information.
Cannot find one, or not sure what you are looking at?
We can identify it, check the level and tell you where you stand.
5. If there is not one, or the level is wrong
Neither of those is an emergency and neither means anything is currently going wrong. What they mean is that the property has no designed relief point outside, so if the system ever surcharges the relief will happen indoors.
The fix depends on the property. Sometimes it is clearing and lowering the ground around an existing gully, which is straightforward. Sometimes it is fitting one where none exists, which is licensed drainage work and needs to be set at the correct level relative to the lowest fixture, which is the whole point.
What it is not is something to improvise. A gully at the wrong level protects nothing, and one installed without regard to the fixture levels inside is decoration.
6. Why this matters more in this valley than elsewhere
Marrickville sits in a piped urban valley of about 7.9 square kilometres, draining to the Cooks River through four outfalls. It fills from rainfall in minutes rather than from a river over days, and it empties again within about an hour.
That shape means the system here sees short, intense loading rather than slow inundation, and short intense loading is precisely the condition a relief gully exists for. On flatter, slower ground you might live a lifetime without the question arising. Here it arrives every few summers.
Which is why the twenty minutes spent finding the grate and checking its level is genuinely worth more on this ground than almost any other maintenance you could do.
- The overflow relief gully is the release valve on your sanitary drainage.
- It is meant to spill outside so nothing relieves through a fixture indoors.
- Its spill level must sit at least 150 mm below the lowest fixture connected to the drain.
- Many older houses here never had one, and later landscaping has buried others.
- Without the margin, the lowest opening indoors becomes the relief point.
- In a valley that fills in minutes, this is the highest-value twenty minutes available.
Overflow relief gully FAQs
How do I tell an overflow relief gully from a stormwater pit?
A relief gully is generally close to the house, at ground level, and connected to the sanitary drainage. A stormwater pit is usually larger, often further out, and takes surface water and downpipes. If you are unsure, it is worth having identified properly.
The grate lifts off easily. Is that a fault?
No, that is the design. It has to be able to lift under pressure so the system can relieve outside. A grate that is bolted down or paved over cannot do the job it is there for.
There is no gully anywhere. What should I do?
It is worth knowing and it is worth doing something about, but it is not an emergency. Fitting one is licensed drainage work and it has to be set at the correct level relative to the lowest fixture inside, which is the part that makes it work.
Can I just lower the ground around the existing one?
Sometimes that is exactly the fix, and it is the cheapest one available. What matters is the resulting level relative to the lowest fixture in the house, so it is worth having that checked rather than estimated.
Water came up in my shower during a storm. Is that this?
It is the classic pattern. If the system had a working relief point outside, it should have relieved there. The shower being the relief point means it was the lowest available opening.
Whose responsibility is the sewer surcharging?
The public network is the water authority's and they are the authority on it. What sits inside your boundary, including the relief gully and its level, is the property owner's, and that is the part you can do something about.